Call From The History

It was adventurous when we drove from Sanjay Gandhi National park gate to Kanheri Caves. The word Kanheri comes from a Sanskrit word Krishnagiri which means in English, Black Mountain. It was indeed black and dry with some trees on it. This black mountain is situated at the central area of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Mumbai, Maharashtra.

The Sanjay Gandhi National Park is the home of numerous flora and fauna. Mumbaikers do come here for morning walk or for cycling. The wide road with lush green forest both the sides of it is indeed peace in the eyes. One can even meet a Chital, while roaming around at the national park area. Being in the heart of the busy city, Mumbai, Sanjay Gandhi National Park won’t let you feel the hustle-bustle of city life once you enter their premises.

We stopped by some fresh fruit stalls and relished watermelon slices near Kanheri. Those juicy watermelon slices refreshed my mood to walk up to the top of the hill, where it is trying to touch the sky. Those are rock cut steps made during the period of 1st century CE to 10th century CE to help us to climb Kanheri.

After few steps, we started to see the history of the Konkan coast. There were a large Buddhist settlement in this area between 1st century CE to 10th Century CE. During 3rd century CE, Kanheri was the most important place of Konkan coast. People back then used their creative skill and made living places in the body of this black mountain.

Kanheri has total 109 caves, most of them are small caves. But, there are some big caves too. The old caves are plane and small. These caves have a stone plinth each, which had been used as a bed back then. Those all were made for living, study or meditation. On the other hand, the large caves were used to function as Chaityas, means, a hall for congregational worship.

Cave 3 is a large Chaitya. It has a Stupa surrounded by larger decorative pillars. It also has a veranda, where two standing figures of Bodhisattva Avalokiteswara always catch the attention of visitors. Those are huge and well carved in the wall of the cave. On the left side of the great Chaitya, there is a very small cave marked as cave 4, which has a small Dagoba inside it. In the body of the Dagoba, has a sculpture of Buddha and litany.

Some of the caves were converted as permanent monasteries and their walls carved with intricate reliefs of Buddha and the Bodhisattva. Cave 1 is such one Monastery which framed by two giant pillars and has two stories. But, looks like never completed.  

Among all those 109 caves, Cave 90 was astonishing to see. This cave seems totally dedicated to creativity and Lord Buddha, as its walls have amazing relief carvings of Lord Buddha seated on Padmasana on a lotus. Tow figures with snake hoods are supporting Lord Buddha and surrounded by attendants. The carvings of this cave have similarities of Mahayana carvings. Each relief carving of this cave is very prominent and fresh.

One thing I marked in the carvings is, the faces are partially damaged. This is clearly indicated some group of people from different culture tried to damage these beautiful carvings to establish their domination in this region by forcing their culture to the locals.  

Once the colony of Buddhist monks is now turned into a weekend gateway in Mumbai. Kanheri is giving a clear understanding of people back then and their lives. It is also giving us the idea about how creatively people carved in those walls to show dedication to their culture and Lord Buddha.